“As a young teen I’d get a lot of incredible gems from charity shops, wonderful stuff. It was fashionable to shop 2nd hand. In the 80’s it was very common to find clothes from the 50’s and 60’s.”
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The hot take circulating on TikTok that we shouldn't shop at charity shops unless we have to is based on myth: in the three I've worked in, we were never wanting for stock, just space to sell and store it all. The scores and scores of clothing we sent back to 'the warehouse' (just as ominous as it sounds, it turns out) was shocking.
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As a lifelong fan of the genre and reeling ex-emo, I have appointed myself resident expert of dark dressing and alternative adornment, undoubtedly qualified for the task of tracking the history of heavy music fashion in the mainstream.
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The pandemic has not only shifted the way we consume, but it has shifted the way stores value their space and the experience they offer while inside it.
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Now, this may implicate that we should work towards reclaiming those words and removing the negative connotations associated, particularly with regards to the word 'large', which has become a feared entity, feeding into harmful fatphobic hatred. But it is important not to dismiss the role fashion and clothing brands play in enforcing these damaging labels.
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The Netflix hit Bridgerton, adapted from Julia Quinn’s bestselling novels, created by Chris Van Dusen, and produced by Shonda Rhimes, revealed to 82 million viewers the exquisite fashion of Regency Britain. While Bridgerton costume designer Ellen Mirojnick took influence from the colour palettes, fabrications, and silhouettes of the 1950s and 1960s to create the show’s 7,500 costume pieces, this article provides a whistle(down)stop tour of early 1800s fashion.
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Nowadays, we can expand the term lesbians to include all marginalised genders and sexualities; in short, presenting yourself, fashioning yourself, even, as anything other than a cisgendered, heterosexual person usually entails some kind of rejection of rigidly gendered, binary beliefs about clothing. For queer women particularly, this follows a long history of queer figures in the public eye overtly rejecting and toying with 'women's' clothing.
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