Foodies in the Time of Covid Q&A: Kate Hawkings
I met Kate Hawkings many years ago when she worked at the infamous Rocinantes on Whiteladies Road, the area known as ‘the strip’ back in the mid-80s. I was in London in its early years but often visited and, as my brother owned it, I was a regular at that big oak bar when in town, and then behind it after I moved to Bristol, often side by side with Kate.
Kate and I have worked together on many catering events, also once diverting our talents memorably into a cushion and scarf making project that netted us both approx £9 each but left us draped beautifully in velvet for the next few years. She was part of the team behind Bells Diner and an erstwhile partner in Bellita, two of Bristol’s best restaurants, both of which sadly closed before covid.
Kate is the author of Aperitif: A Spirited Guide to the Drinks, History and Culture of the Aperitif, a fascinating and hilarious book packed with delicious recipes for all sorts of aperitifs and cocktails, including the perfect Negroni, my all-time favourite.
Who are you, and what have you got to do with food in Bristol?
I’ve always had what I gather is known as a ‘portfolio career’, meaning I’ve done loads of different things at different times, still based around food and drink, and have been based in Bristol for nearly 30 years. I’ve worked in restaurants and events; now I write, mainly about wine and other drinks for anybody who’ll pay me, as well as doing some consultancy and copywriting work.
Has covid affected your work or business, and if so, how?
Before covid, most of my work involved travelling to wine regions around the world. Obviously, this has now all stopped, so it’s been quite devastating. On the upside, my carbon footprint is a fraction of what it once was. I’m still writing a bit, but I am profoundly grateful for having two lodgers who help pay the bills as well as keeping me company.
Has lockdown had any benefits, to do with food or otherwise for you personally?
Last year I grew vegetables in my garden, which was an education. To be honest, everything was a bit of a let-down apart from potatoes which, although the harvest was tiny, were the best potatoes I’ve eaten since those my dad grew when I was a child. Unlike many, I didn’t start making bread - Bristol has so many brilliant bakers, I’d rather support them than subject myself and my lodgers to bread I’ve made that would never be as good as theirs.
Have you done much more cooking at home than usual through lockdown, and if so, what has been your favourite home-cooked dish?
Yes, of course, like most of us. Hard to have a favourite - roast chicken is always a winner. I buy mine from Stream Farm/Jubilee Food Hub, which are really the best chickens ever, not only for the roast itself but (almost better) for the leftovers. Also, egg-fried rice - great for using up whatever’s left in the bottom of the fridge.
Have you made use of any of the local restaurant’s creative responses to having to order any notable take-aways?
God, I wish I could afford to support more local restaurants by using their take-away services, but the bald truth is that my finances don’t allow it. But I’ve had some fantastic food from Bokman on Ninetree Hill, from the Pasta Loco/Bianchi’s team and fish and chips from FiSH.
Back in the real world, how do you see your work/business flourishing in the years to come within the Bristol or wider food scene?
Very hard question! I’m taking one day at a time and keeping all my fingers crossed.
Do you feel that maybe, just maybe, there has been some good come out of all this, and if so, what do you think it is, and how can we make use of it?
It’s been amazing to see how many Bristol food businesses have turned their hand to support vulnerable families and others in need during covid - special shout out to the Square Food Foundation and the Bristol Food Union. There’s a huge amount of community spirit, which is very heartening to see.
And it seems that people are buying more local produce from independent retailers rather than from supermarkets, which has got to be a good thing for the future.
Have you got a recipe you’d like to share with us?
Toast (preferably Hart’s Bakery wholemeal and sesame sourdough) with lots of unsalted butter, chopped red chilli and Maldon salt - the chilli gives a really nice rush to start the day: breakfast of champions!
Written by Liz Haughton
Bristol resident for twenty five years, Liz ran the Folk House Cafe in Bristol for 13 and half years, adding Spike Island Cafe in along the way, until August 2019. Liz is currently working part time for the Children's Kitchen encouraging nursery school kids to play with their food and writing blog posts and recipes for Betty Bites website (https://www.bettybites.co.uk ). Liz is a cook, writer, painter and general dabbler in all things creative.
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