Talking To: Bristol Food Union
Bristol Food Union is a project that comes straight from the heart of the city of Bristol. This initiative originates within the industry that perhaps has been hit most by the Covid-19 crisis: the Food and Hospitality sector. It involves not only restaurants but also local farmers and producers who suddenly saw a massive drop in demand for their products. In the face of this crisis, when each one of them is struggling to keep business alive, they decided to come together and put their work, skills and passions to help the ones who are in a much worse situation.
I had the pleasure to talk with Tessa Lidstone, from BOX-E, who has been overseeing the provision for vulnerable young people.
How did the Bristol Food Union start? Where the idea came from?
It was a collective action between a small group of friends and restaurants. We said that we would help where possible. So the Food Union was created then is some form. It took the role of connecting all together and joining the dots.
At that point, we had no idea what the government was going to put in place in terms of financial measures. So we agreed that if we were going to the council together, as a collective, saying that we were representing all of Bristol restaurants, cafes, food producers then we had a stronger voice.
It was something that came naturally, or you discussed a lot about it?
It came very naturally. At that time, we didn't know about the financial support from the government. We thought that we were going to lose our restaurant and that we were going to tell loyal staff that when the money runs out, we were not able to pay them anymore. It's devastating to have to tell people that!
I imagine that hearing about the financial help was for you a relief.
Yeah, and also to know that we didn't need to lay staff off. If you have to make people redundant during this time and their profession is in the hospitality industry, whether you go along with the Boris Johnson belief that we are kind of low skilled workers or not, these are people who have chosen the hospitality as their profession. And if we can't employee them, who can? You are throwing them to nothing!
So to be able to keep them on our payroll it was brilliant. But then you have to remember there are still costs even if the restaurant is not open. It's a waiting game basically.
Tell me about the work at the Bristol Food Union; I know you are in charge of the provision for vulnerable young people. Who are them, where are they based, and how do you provide them food?
On behalf of the council, but also as part of our Food Union work, we provide boxes of essentials (from toilet paper, soap, potatoes, baked beans and a few treats) to young people who have recently left foster care. They are finding themselves living on their own for the first time, which is already a vulnerable situation to be in. Then you add to that the fact that income is tight and that the cheapest and most essential things that people rely on as cheap food are not available anymore.
We pack the boxes at the Ashton Gate Stadium, but they don't contain any cooked food yet. Even though we are discussing with the council whether that provision continues and in what capacity it continues. They are talking about reopening the kitchens so, potentially, we could join up and cook, pack the boxes where there can be some home-cooked food.
How many people are we talking about?
Roughly 300 at the moment, but we are discussing with the council whether there is a core group of people who needs ongoing support. At the moment, these are unique addresses; they are different people each time the boxes go out.
Another intention of the Food Union is to provide a daily hot meal to the frontline workers. That's why we had so many donations for.
We've now got some incredible links with ICU units so that their fantastic nurses are getting a hot meal delivered to the hospitals. It's just not about money there; it's about time and availability. If you are working an extended shift and you have no time you may just eat a full pack of biscuits. The guys from Gallimaufry, Suncraft, the Pump House, just to name a few, are turning up with tasty, nutritious food for them.
Bristol is a multicultural pot with its own various and unique cuisine. What do you think the role of the food industry is within this community?
Everybody has a role to play. We have a very tangible role as we are capable of producing food. I also believe that even if you are at home self-isolating and you can't go out because you are in a vulnerable category, there are still things you can do.
We have fantastic support from our customers who are sharing what we are doing, donating and telling other people about it and that is massive as well. Everybody has a part to play in the recovery. I think Bristol is unique as it has enormous pride in independent businesses and in businesses doing well. Something that Bristolians should feel very proud about is that the businesses feel so much love from their customers who are their community as well.
Food is the most powerful factor that, when it doesn't start a conflict, allows every living being to gather together and for humans to form communities and societies. So (without being naive) can cooking be seen as a deliberate act of love and giving?
We are focusing on making people happy. My husband is a chef. He cooks to make people happy and to make himself happy. He cooks because he knows other people love eating. We open our arms and we let people eat in our restaurants because we love to make people happy.
So many people are hit a lot worse than we are, so if we can do a small thing to make that change, then we will do that. You don't have to be a certain person. You don't have to have a certain wealth, you can make your change and, however small that is, it still matters.
Your initiative at the Food Union is also helping many local producers, who otherwise would see threw away their efforts. Do you think that after this crisis, people will be more aware of local producers and maybe that they will support them?
I hope so. I believe that this crisis has made people more aware of the food chain, and I think that interestingly it has been more of the local, smaller suppliers that have still been able to keep producing. These people are struggling as part of their trade has dropped off. They are doing home delivery now and I hope this will continue as they are doing a fantastic job.
We've got excellent links with food producers so the delivery it's easier than if you were starting from no base. We work with lovely cheese producers, for example, who have been in touch with me saying that they are still producing cheese and they are still supplying the Bristol Cheesemonger and whoever else is even taking their cheese. Besides, they said that as part of that they would like to give the Food Union project cheese every week.
In the end, it's all about the people. Our restaurant is at Wapping Wharf, where there are not just restaurants, there is the Bristol Cheesemonger, there is a coffee shop and so forth. These are all people who care about you, and we care about them. We want them to survive as much as we want to survive. That's the strength! If we get to the point where we are able to reopen, we will be able to pick up where we left off hopefully. And as soon as you have the ability to buy food, you know who you are going to go to first and this is going to be those people whose passion is in what they do.
During the food Expo in Milan in 2015, the chef Massimo Bottura decided to reopen an old refectory to feed people in need. Many international chefs took part in this initiative to show that it's possible doing so with simple ingredients. Actually with what would have been the 'waste' from the numbers of kitchens at the Expo.
As Food Union, how do you relate with this project, how similar is in your opinion? Lastly, after this crisis, would you like to keep on doing what you are doing now, as they did?
I think it is essential to show people that you don't need to use expensive ingredients. The ethos of our restaurants is all about celebrating food, and that is often things that people wouldn't consider, like turnips. We like cooking delicious, nutritious meals with minimal food waste.
Ever since we started our business, we have always supported projects that we feel strongly about in the communities. We have always worked very closely with many charitable organizations, we have donated and raised lots of money for them over the years. For our restaurant, it is tricky to donate food, but we made meals for 80 homeless people for Christmas, and despite our a tiny kitchen, it was interesting in the dynamics.
At the Food Union, there are many chefs, like me, who are used to do the same and they will definitely continue to do so. Lots of our connections existed already before this crisis, now it's only more possible to do that on a larger scale as we have more time to invest in this project, but we will continue to do that where this time is over.
Follow Bristol Food Union on Facebook, Instagram and Twitter or visit their website to find out more about this initiative.
Written by Bruno Cafiso
Ciao I'm Bruno, a Philosophy graduate, originally from Sicily, with a keen eye for human perception and decision-making process. Writing is my passion, but I'm also passionate about food, mainly because of its social and cultural aspect.
I'm curious and I love travelling, while I focus on what's essential in life, trying to live with less stuff and more meaning.