The Everyday Review: Meyze
Authentic Turkish cuisine, curated by region and Ece’s own taste of home. Meyze’s founder is sharing her own innovative takes on classic dishes. From bold, saucy dips to deliciously baked breads, Meyze specialise in veg forward small plates, with seafood appreciated in small doses.
Meyze has soon become the warmth and breathing space of Chandos Road with its causal atmosphere and friendly custom. Think low lighting, generously seated tables, candles and wall to ceiling windows. It’s truly a restaurant you can stop by and have a few dishes, maybe a couple of wines, no pressure.
We were generously invited to taste their opening menu and welcomed by a glass of Kavaklidere Cankaya, a crisp Turkish white wine with notes of citrus and green apple.
Ece and her team kindly prepared a set meal of hot and cold mezze. The cold mezze included dips, tapenade, marinated beans and dressed hummus, served with fresh sourdough bread. The hot mezze, a generous plate of crispy, fried potatoes and flatbreads spread with a spiced vegetable mince. It is truly worth mentioning that many dishes came with house pickles, from sweet red onion to sharp, tangy gherkins.
As traditionally served, we began with the cold mezze, starting with the spicy Ezme, a dip native to Anatolia, Southeast Turkey. A fresh blend of finely chopped peppers, tomatoes, chilli and olive oil, served with sourdough. Although spicy, the spice is subtle and slow to kick in. Overall, the dip is more cooling than hot. The crushed tomatoes and peppers are homogenised, blended perfectly, so that you can’t be sure which you’ll taste next. Visually, the dip is stunning - a rich jewel red that glistens with a coat of olive oil.
Bread, namely sourdough, was a constant staple through our meal, used to mop up every last smear of sauce. Meyze really do indulge in the Turkish tradition and hospitality of serving bread and it’s easy to see why. Homely, warm and satiating, bread complimented every dip, including the Antakya style hummus.
Inspired by Southern regions of Turkey where dishes are commonly spicy, Meyze top their classic creamy hummus with a chilli butter that lays in delicious pools. Fats, spice, salt and heat (in the spicy sense), this simple dish has a complete flavour profile. The hummus is velvety, smooth and nutty, while the butter has a real mouthfeel.
Next up, the olive tapenade canape. Now, this dish is special. Prior to being a Turkish restaurant, Meyze was a Turkish café that served a deliciously sweet bun, filled with black Turkish olives. The very same olives now in their canapes. A very stern, strong-tasting olive that really makes itself known. A generous layer of tapenade is loaded onto a toasted baguette, sliced thinly enough to make the bite perfect. Although canapes are not traditionally Turkish, they share the same sentiment of Turkish mezze in that they are small and plentiful. The tapenade is also paired with mint and cucumber to soften the (very delicious) blow of the salty olives. Again, not traditional, but a fun and innovative twist.
The real showstopper was the Barbunya Pilaki, borlotti beans, tomatoes and green peppers marinated in a dressing of olive oil and lemon, garnished with fresh parsley. The dressing and the beans are muddled together to create a viscous sauce that is earthy and fresh. ‘Pilaki’ is a mixture of braised onions, garlic and tomatoes, which when cooled allows the flavours to deepen and makes the dish feel lighter.
For the hot mezze we had batata Harra, crispy fried potatoes tossed in parsley, garlic and chilli, and Ece’s favourite dish, the Lahmacun, flatbreads loaded with vegan mince, salad and pickles. It made complete sense for these two, very comforting, dishes to be eaten after the lighter, cold mezze.
The potatoes are pillowy, generously pilled and dusted in spices. Unlike the beloved patatas bravas, batata Harras are cut into small, uniform pieces to ensure they are cooked evenly. You can easily spoon a dozen in each mouthful, and they are especially tasty with a dollop of hummus.
Like many mezze dishes, the flatbreads are the perfect hands-on-food. There’s something truly special about touching your food and having that physical connection to what you eat. It was also fun to squeeze the lime over the top and roll the flatbreads before taking the first bite. The vegetable mince is savoury and carries a rich tomatoey tang that cuts through the hearty dough.
To end our meal, we were served Ece’s rendition of affogato, a strong Turkish coffee poured over a soft vanilla ice cream topped with crumbled pistachios. The sweet and bitter combination are complimentary and the perfect finisher. Interestingly, the ceramic pourers used for the coffee were once used to serve milk in the bakery. As someone who had a soft spot for the former bakery, this repurposing was a heart warming touch.
We can’t wait to watch Meyze become a firm favourite among locals, especially as the winter months draw in. We thank Ece for sharing her love of Turkish cuisine, and her team for a seamless menu and evening.
Review by food editor of the Everyday Magazine, Amelia Ling
